Airflow question when changing CPU-cooler

Another CPU-cooler question x)

In my other topic I wondered what CPU-cooler I would choose, and I think (but I'm not sure yet) that I will choose the Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme. The problem that occured to me then, is that I have an AMD processor, and with AMD you can only place the heatsink at 0 or 180 degrees, not at 90 or 270. If my thoughts are right, that will not work very good with the airflow.

Here's two pictures that explains the problem :D

With my current CPU-cooler:

First example

 

With the Thermalright 120:

The second example

 

 

Is this a problem, or do you think it doesn't matter that much?

Help me out :)

56,372 views 20 replies
Reply #1 Top

well, i just checked their site and can't find an adapter you can use. i started thios post to say you can rotate the cooler since i used to do it back in my socket 939 days. that s-bracket would allow me to rotate the ultra120 any way i wanted to. have you considered the coolermaster v8? if you get the TRUE, put a fan on the bottom of it and have it blow up. a second fan on the top of it isn't really needed.

i'm not liking this because i was intending on putting my old TRUE on my daughter's amd board. i was going to order the needed brackets soon. i think i'll wait a bit, though. i'm going to have to look into it now. i'm glad you brought this up.

Reply #2 Top

lol dude i own a true 120 mounted at 180 degrees and all i can tell u is that thats ridiculous ur going to all this trouble of drawing things lool my q9550 is OCed from 2.8 to 4.0ghz at temps of 60-70 on 100% load i can also tell u that if u lap it u'll get like 5 degress less but i dont think thats even necessary lol just go ahead and buy it if ur not gonna overclock mutch u dont even need a fan on it, good luck.

Reply #3 Top

wipuliwo, you're saying the TRUE can be mounted so the air is discharged out the back of the case? i had to get the s-bracket to do that on my old asus socket 939 board. i hope you're correct. as i said, i want to use my old TRUE in my kid's rig with the air blowing to the rear. i 'm sure i'll have to order new retention brackets, tho.

Reply #4 Top

I think that second pic with the Thermalright 120 is not good because you have warm air being circulated back into the front of the case and being recirculated through the CPU cooler.  Remeber the power supply is generating heat as well...   you need the cooler to direct that hot air right out the back of the case and the second pic allows for recirculation of warm air.

 

 

Reply #5 Top

Remeber the power supply is generating heat as well... you need the cooler to direct that hot air right out the back of the case and the second pic allows for recirculation of warm air.

Strange, neither picture takes into account the power supply fan. I've never seen a power supply without a fan and it would be sucking the air below the power supply out the back also.

Reply #7 Top

Thanks for the link, yrag.  :)

I was thinking just the other day about better CPU cooling for the hot Oz Summer... temps up to 40c + on occasion.  That Noctua cooler looks like the go, being mine is also an AMD based rig.

:)

Reply #8 Top

Quoting IAmPas, reply 3
wipuliwo, you're saying the TRUE can be mounted so the air is discharged out the back of the case?

no mate, i dont own a amd i know u can mount it horizontaly or verticaly in the lga 775 socket on the amd socket i'm not sure sry that i cant help u there, all i'm saying is that the airflow thing doesnt rly matter in that case cuz the airflow on that seems to be bad with 2 fans i can promise u u wont feel a single degree difference from mounting it horizontaly or vertically on that case

Reply #9 Top

Quoting CarGuy1, reply 5

Strange, neither picture takes into account the power supply fan. I've never seen a power supply without a fan and it would be sucking the air below the power supply out the back also.

-Sorry, didn't paint that one, wrote Power Supply because all power supplies work the same way, so I thought I didn't have to paint it :D

But yes, the air from the CPU-cooler will be directed right up at the power supply.

I have no idea how that would affect my airflow, and I'm not very good at those things anyway. It was my friend that awared me of this problem, and I had to check around ^^

Reply #10 Top

Imho it doesn't make much of a difference. With an airflow like in the second picture, the Power Supply will aid in getting the warm air away from the CPU. But of course the PSU itself will also get hotter this way. The question there is: will the Power Supply's fan have to run faster/louder because of this. If not, then everything is ok.

Reply #11 Top

yrag, do you know if those fans will be availible in the states?

Also, what's your opinion of a Coolmaster V8?

I'm building a new system and will need another cooling solution for the Q9550 CPU other than the stock cooler.

Reply #12 Top

Strange, neither picture takes into account the power supply fan. I've never seen a power supply without a fan and it would be sucking the air below the power supply out the back also.

 

Thats true and i should have mentioned that in my reply...  I forget because my power supply is mounted on the bottom and seperated by a wall and has its own air flow.  So, yes i should have made the part of the equation...

 

Here is my suggestion.

try a simple maintence free liquid cooling.  Masscool makes a very nice all-in-one water cooling kit.

Masscool 7WA002L Water Cooler, you can get this at Newegg for about the same price as any high end CPU air cooler...  I have used this myself and it keeps the cpu at very nice constant 31 C.  I have this one my new and old system and and the old one is 3 1/2 years old and never once had an issue with it...  with this CPU air flow is not an issue.

 

Masscool 7WA002L Water Cooler

 

 

Reply #13 Top

I have a thermalright 120 extreme (TRUE 120) cooling a q9550 overclocked to 4.02 ghz for almost a year now. After lapping the TRUE 120's base (Youtube it for info), load temps from p95 large n small FFT max out at 45°C with ambiant room temp at 75 F or so. Just a FYI, you can have the TRUE 120 mounted vertically so that the air is being blown out the rear of the case instead of into ur psu. I use a antec 900 of which the psu is on the bottom so ive neve had that issue come up. I just recently remounted the heatsink so the air is being blown out the top fan so i could install a side panel fan to acheive positive air pressure inside the case.

in my experience tho, a well lapped TRUE 120 with a high quality thermal paste such as. I.C. Diamond 7 carat, T.C Grease 0098, will hold its own very well against a entry level water cooling loop. You can also get the TRUE 120 pre lapped from www.crazypc.com for a lil extra. For a past client, i got a true 120 lapped from crazypc.com and was pleased with the job.

Hope the info helps

Reply #14 Top

Sorry, didn't paint that one, wrote Power Supply because all power supplies work the same way

Older ones sucked....modern ones blow.

Same 'standard' PSU size format...but the oldies had a smaller fan directly at the back of the case/chassis sucking air from the PSU 'guts to the outside....whereas modern ones use the larger sectional area of the bottom/top of the PSU to fit a larger/quieter fan.....typically blowing through the PSU 'guts' to venting that's usually at the rear....;)

I need a life.....

Reply #15 Top

Quoting CarGuy1, reply 5


Strange, neither picture takes into account the power supply fan. I've never seen a power supply without a fan and it would be sucking the air below the power supply out the back also.

which is one more reason to have a CPU cooler exhuasting toward the back of the case.

the PSU is already running ~50C. you need not be pushing warm air toward it to help heat it up more or hinder it's own cooling.

the hotter a PSU runs the less efficient it runs, the less efficient it runs the hotter it runs. so by sending hot air toward it even if that air is only a a couple degree warmer than the PSU you can potentially increase the heat of your PSU 5C+.

the longer a PSU runs hot the FASTER it WILL DIE. 

PSU's alreadly lose upto 30% of output ability over time (average 3yrs) due to heat, adding 5C to what they already operate at will only shorten the life of a PSU. IF your LUCKY you will catch it before it takes out your video card, CPU or mainboard.

HEAT KILLS ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS!!!!

THE FASTER YOU EXHAUST IT WITHOUT PUSHING IT PAST SOMETHING IT DOES NOT HAVE TO PASS, THE BETTER.

 

 

Reply #16 Top

I agree. Send the CPU heat out the back, not into the PSU. Doubly so if you are running the PSU at over 50% of its rated capacity. A PSU failure could leave your entire system as nothing more than junk, because it could fail during a write - which could leave your FAT as nothing more than toast if the write is to a critical system file.

The__Goo mentions a liquid cooling solution. That works fine, unless a hose or seal fails. Then what do you have?

Sizzle. Dead. And just that fast. Toast.

This 'need' to push to the outer limits of the hardware, I will never understand. Let it do what it is designed for, and upgrade from that point on.

Because face it. An extra percent or two is hardly worth the effort, nor the cost. You would not even notice it if you were not wasting so much time in the calculations. And then, it is simply a head trip to convince yourself that you have a 'SUCH' faster machine than what you started out with.

Wow! I can do in 100ms what I could do in 108ms before. Big deal!

The time you take gloating more than overcomes the time you have saved.

Reply #17 Top

The__Goo mentions a liquid cooling solution. That works fine, unless a hose or seal fails. Then what do you have?

Regular maintenance will prevent such things...  as you should do with an air cooled system...  you need to clean dust from the system on a regular basis for better functionality and to extend the life of the system.  As I have stated I have a maintenance free liquid cooling system on one of my computers that is been there since march of `06 and I have yet to have a problem.  Once a month I blow the dust from the system and check hoses and refit the peripherals connections and I’m good to go.  I have not seen any dry rotting of the hose nor any swelling or anything that would indicate bad hoses or connections.

 

This ‘need' to push to the outer limits of the hardware, I will never understand. Let it do what it is designed for, and upgrade from that point on.

For one thing, pushing the system to its edge is a enthusiast’s hobby.  I love to see what I can out of my computer… in a community I participate in I receive bragging rights by pushing my system to its edge.  We compete to see who is better… no different than any baseball or football game.  Besides the human race defines its self with competition.  We have competed in sports and personal ability since the beginning of our intelligent existence.  Technology has given us another way to strut our bestest.  Pissing contests are a normal part of any society and/or community.

Beyond all that in the world of gaming… milliseconds are the difference between a win and a loss.  It only takes for the other guy to be 1 millisecond faster and it’s GAME OVER

 

Reply #18 Top

Quoting The__Goo, reply 17


The__Goo mentions a liquid cooling solution. That works fine, unless a hose or seal fails. Then what do you have?

 

you can also, if worried about it, use a 'conformal coating' on the board which if used properly will by a little time for one to notice the leak.

a conformal coat is a sealant that is used on boards to protect against moisture. it is highly suggested/required if one is using a thermoelectric CPU cooler as they create condensation.

 

 

Reply #19 Top

my power supply isn't above my CPU, so that problem's solved ^_^

Reply #20 Top

Well, it seems that blowing the air up into the Power Supply isn't a good idea, and I don't think that it's an idea to try modding my MB. So I'll probably have to choose another cooler ^^